We’ve covered over 1000km on the most incredible overland tour you can imagine. Madagascar’s beautiful landscapes exploded in front of us as we travelled from Antananarivo to Toliara via towns, villages and National Parks. We’ve seen some of Madagascar’s spectacular wildlife including endemic lemurs and chameleons, climbed mountains and bathed under incredible waterfalls.
And that’s just the start… we have 6 weeks of conservation, research and diving ahead.
The coast is where we’ve been heading. Blue Ventures’ volunteer expeditions are based in the spectacular setting of Andavadoaka in the South West of Madagascar. Andavadoaka lies on the edge of a shallow lagoon, protected from the open ocean by a series of fringing and submerged coral reefs, providing a vital resource base for local fisheries. We settle into our new home, colourful eco-cabins where we’ll be spending our downtime over the next few weeks, overlooking the white sandy beach and turquoise blue sea beyond.
I don’t know how to begin concerning a description of Andavadoaka, let alone Madagascar, except to say that it’s the most remarkable corner of the earth I’ve ever been invited to discover.
It won’t be long until we hit the water, but we start in the classroom for both science and dive training. About half of our group haven’t dived before so they are taken all the way through the PADI Openwater and Advanced Openwater certificates in our first fortnight on site. Because all the volunteers will be collecting scientific data which is used to inform Blue Ventures’ science and practice, we have to learn to properly identify the numerous species we’ll see underwater, as well as the scientific techniques we’ll be using to collect and analyse data.
We can now identify the elegantly swaying soft corals, the grape-like hard coral massive bubble and the lacy gorgonian fans. Knowing what we see makes the dive so much more rewarding, for now instead of saying ‘oh wow did you see that funny looking blob thing that looks like it arrived on a spaceship’ we can say ‘those tunicates were amazing!’
While we’d happily spend every minute under water, our dive protocols are closely monitored by the experienced Blue Ventures staff. We normally manage 1 or 2 dives a day, 5 days a week but that depends on the weather and our dive profiles.
Descending into the cool turquoise water below, I am overcome with that well-known sense of utter peace that accompanies the stillness and weightlessness of being underwater. The temperature is perfect, the visibility is exceptional and our spirits are high. Before us the reef has come alive with pairs of butterfly fish chasing each other like flirtatious lovers, curious crescent wrasse darting around like energizer bunnies and tiny nudibranchs showing off a spectacularly mismatched array of colours that no human could pull off with half as much dignity.
The dive boat surfs along the coast whilst we chow down on Bokbok (doughnut holes) and coffee, little bursts of excitement and anticipation fizzing in my stomach. Will we find the reef? Will the humpback whales breach? Have I forgotten my weight belt again?
When we’re not underwater there are so many incredible activities to get involved with - everything from replanting local mangroves to learning to sail pirogues or a trek to the magnificent baobab forest - we’re never bored!
A quick turnaround for sailing sees us grabbing our wet gear and heading down to Andavadoaka beach. The Vezo sail in wooden canoes with outriggers, known locally as pirogues and racing on windy days can be ferocious. We learn the knots and how to put up the main beams then head out into the bay, taking turns on the outrigger to balance the load of the wind in the sail. It’s pretty incredible skimming over the water, flying over the reef below, standing on nothing more than an arms width of wood and holding on for dear life!
The sunsets here are over the ocean and always breath-taking, particularly when we have some clouds to ignite. And then the stars… never in my life have I seen so many stars! Joining a Blue Ventures Madagascar expedition has been an incredible experience and one I’ll never forget. It’s probably best summed up with a final word from Madison Kane, Blue Ventures’ Madagascar Expedition Manager and former volunteer…
Your heart will fall in love with Andavadoaka and you most definitely won’t want to go home, but we only live once, so dream big, take chances, and support conservation. Challenge yourself and travel with a purpose. Pack your bags and see you next expedition?